Yellowfoot tortoise Pre-Adults

From $225.00 Each

two available – one 5+ months and one 18+ months – both undetermined sex

Our captive bred Yellowfoot hatchlings are  well started.   When properly cared for, they will provide a lifetime of enjoyment.

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Yellowfoot Tortoise pre-Adults (Chelonoidis denticulatus)

The Yellowfoot tortoise is closely related to the Redfoot tortoise.  They are native to areas of the Amazon Basin in South America.  The Florida climate, where we keep our breeders and their captive bred offspring, provides a good substitute environment for these tortoises. As they are also quite adaptable to varying climate conditions, they can be maintained in more northern areas but will need to be kept inside a heated area during winter or other cold periods (e.g., temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit). With their attractive appearance, typical full size of about 12-14 inches, and ease of care, these are our most popular tortoise choice. When properly cared for, they will provide a lifetime of enjoyment.

see description on wiki

NOTE: Must be 18+ years old to order. Please check your state and local laws concerning captive species before ordering. Turtles and tortoises under 4 inches are sold for scientific, educational, and exhibition purposes only.

Additional information

Weight 1 lbs
Dimensions 7 × 7 × 7 in
Common Name

Yellowfoot tortoise

Scientific name

Chelonoidis denticulatus





Typical Adult size

15 – 24 inches in length


The natural habitat for the Redfoot tortoise includes varied settings in or near rain forests or in dryer grassland regions. They have a wide range from equatorial regions of Panama and some Caribbean Islands to the more moderate temperatures of mid South America. The tortoises need areas to graze and mixtures of sun and shade; a source of clean water; and covered areas for resting and protection against temperature extremes and inclement weather. Redfoot tortoises in captivity should be housed in an environment which is modeled after this natural habitat. Ideally, the predominant daytime ambient temperature should be in the upper 80's Fahrenheit and daily temperature variations should be less than 25 degrees Fahrenheit. Also, as with their tropical origins, a high level of humidity (60% - 80%) is preferable.

While still small, Redfoot tortoises can be kept inside in a wooden or plastic tub. A household plastic storage bin or cement mixing tub or similar container on the order of 2 - 3 feet in width and length should work well. The tortoise will outgrow this initial setup by age 3 or so. Note that a small terrarium setup with relatively higher glass walls is NOT a good permanent setup (use at least a 20 gallon one). The glass retains heat making it difficult for the tortoises to move between warmer and colder locations to regulate their body heat. Older tortoises will need more space - either a large turtle box or a fenced in area outside. Depending on your climate, having both an outdoor area for your tortoise(s) and an indoor one for use during colder weather may be appropriate.

Any turtle housing container will need to be filled with substrate material. Cypress mulch is a good all around base (do not use other types of wood mulch).  Hide houses and clean water dishes must also be provided. Avoid wetting the substrate mulch as a means of providing humidity since shell rot could result. In arid environments, added humidity could be provided via water misters or, when indoors, through warm air humidifiers. Young redfoots could be particularly prone to pyramiding - elevation of carapace scutes - as a result of low humidity in their environment.

The indoor setup will also require heating and lighting to approximate the normal temperature environment of the tortoises natural habitat. As previously noted, the tortoises naturally seek varied warm and cold areas to regulate their body temperatures. A heat source is a key requirement for Redfoot tortoises which can be intolerant to prolonged temperatures below to their natural habitat. Redfoots can maintain adequate Vitaamin D3 in their system without the need for extensive basking in the sun. When kept inside, a low-wattage UVB bulb (e.g., oriented over the food plate and/or waterbowl) is recommended on an occasional basis, but not necessary on a daily basis.

An outdoor space for your tortoise will have similar requirements. Redfoot tortoises will dig for nesting and for shelter, but not to a depth that would tunnel under fencing. A solid, low fence is adequate for keeping them in. However, your fencing solution may also need to provide for keeping potential predators out.


The land tortoises offered by Redfoot Ranch have similar dietary needs and can primarily be fed the same type of diet. We specifically discuss the care of hatchlings (including diet) in learning. Information below is more generally applicable to fully mature adult tortoises.
When possible, tortoises should be kept outdoors during warm weather in a secure area where they can graze and can move between sunny and shady areas to regulate their body temperature. They also need to be provided with clean fresh water. Solid fencing is preferred and larger tortoises, such as spur-thighs will need very robust enclosures. Also, some tortoises can be extensive diggers so it may be necessary to bury a foot or more or wire cloth or other barrier material around the perimeter (that will also help to keep unwanted predators out). Tortoises need regular sunlight to support their Vitamin D needs. Natural sunlight is best, but, in indoor settings, a good source of UVB will suffice.
Vegetation serves about 95% of the dietary needs of all of our tortoises Their natural grazing should be augmented with dark green leafy items (e.g., collard greens, broccoli leaves). Be sure that none of their food has been subjected to pesticides.
I recommend varying their diet by including items such as the following:
• grated squash, carrots, zucchini
• grated spineless cactus pads
• bell peppers, cucumbers
• small amounts of fruit such as apples (no seeds), pears (no seeds), banana, and melon
• frozen (thawed) vegetables (peas, carrots, corn)
• hibiscus leaves and flowers as well as leaves from my mulberry trees
• romaine and other lettuces

I avoid giving them iceberg lettuce (no nutritional value) and spinach (calcium binding). Redfoots, Cherryheads, and Yellowfoots can be provided with more fruit than other tortoises. Commercial tortoise food available in pet stores can be used as a small portion of their diet - soak before feeding. A calcium and/or multivitamin supplement should also be considered. Calcium can be added frequently (e.g., weekly or for every other feeding) while a multivitamins is appropriate for every other week or so (see information on the packaging).
An improper diet that is too high in protein or other nutrients could lead to your tortoise developing shell abnormalities such as deformed shells. As noted above, pyramiding - a lumpy, domed or otherwise misshapen shell - can result from inadequate humidity. other possible causes of pyramiding could be from excessive protein or inadequate sunlight. Such conditions could negatively affect their mobility and longevity and clearly detracts from their overall appearance.
Maintaining the proper variation on temperature is very important for efficient digestion and may increase vulnerability to various diseases.
In summary, a well-balanced diet is critically important for proper growth and development. Variety is one of the keys to proper nutrition. Vary the diet frequently and provide the correct environment.


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